Hate Buttery Chardonnay? Try These and Get Back to Us

Buttery Chardonnay is a divisive wine style, known for its creamy texture and flavor. This characteristic comes from malolactic fermentation, which converts tart malic acid into softer lactic acid, lowering acidity and producing diacetyl. Critics, like Marshall Tilden III, argue Chardonnay’s natural complexities don’t need this softening, preferring higher acidity. Conversely, proponents such as Matt Kettmann and Tom Capo embrace its traditional decadence and velvety mouthfeel, especially for food pairings. Even fans emphasize the importance of balance. When executed well, malolactic fermentation can contribute to a harmonious profile, avoiding an overwhelming „butter bomb“ while offering rich complexity.

While a crisp white is one of the wine world’s perennial favorites, we’re here to make the case for the decadent, rich universe of buttery Chardonnay. 

Few topics are as divisive in the wine landscape. Buttery Chardonnay’s infamously creamy quality is the product of malolactic fermentation, a technique involving introducing specific bacteria to wine. This addition converts tart malic acid into softer lactic acid, lowering the wine’s acidity and resulting in a rounder mouthfeel and a distinctively buttery flavor (thanks to Diacetyl, a byproduct of the process).

While we can agree that buttery Chard may be an acquired taste, some folks absolutely hate it. In our April 2023 print issue, Marshall Tilden III, the President of Wine Education at Wine Enthusiast, came out swinging against buttery Chard, albeit judiciously. “[Unlike] other, and more simple white varietals, the complexities of Chardonnay stand strong on their own without needing to soften, or transform, the flavor profile,” he said. Although malolactic conversion “can round out the acidity, softening the wine on the palate, I much prefer a Chard with searing acidity that has me craving a second sip.”

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Team Buttery Chardonnay

On the other side of the spectrum, however, the style isn’t without its fans. 

“In a world that craves unadulterated wines more than ever, denying Chardonnay its natural inclination to undergo malolactic fermentation is an enological faux pas,” argues Matt Kettmann, Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large and reviewer of wines from California. “Why rely on modern technology to change the way this noble grape has been treated since Burgundian monks got a hold of it a millennium ago?”

WE Writer-at-Large Tom Capo, who reviews Sonoma County wines, is also a fan. “Sometimes, there’s no substitute for the decadence of a barrel-aged Chardonnay,” he says. “There’s a certain voluptuousness to well-made buttery Chardonnay that just hits different—especially during crab season. The velvety mouthfeel and rounded flavors of this style of Chardonnay accentuate the texture of succulent crab meat.”

Michael Alberty, a WE Writer-at-Large who reviews wines from the Pacific Northwest, similarly adores buttery Chards—with a caveat. “I look for Chardonnays that provide a bit of butter without making me feel like I’ve licked the bottom of a Land O’Lakes tub,” he says. “I’m in heaven if I find a Chardonnay that combines butter with elevated acidity.”

It’s All About Balance

This is all to say: Even those with a preference for buttery styles have their limits. What is most important, as with all wines, is a balanced flavor profile, and malolactic fermentation can play a crucial part in that balance.

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“Listen, I love a racy Chardonnay more than most,” Kettmann says. “But the grape’s potential for screamingly high acidity—especially in cool-climate regions like California’s Central Coast—typically requires the smoother mouthfeel and warmer flavors that come from a bit of lactic acid. Like everything in wine, it’s all about finding that balance, and the absolute denial of one critical and natural tool in the winemaking process is the start of a dangerous journey. If you don’t like ML, you may just not like Chardonnay.”

If you’ve gotten this far in the story, we’re assuming you’re Team Buttery Chardonnay (or at least open-minded). To reward you, we’ve compiled a list of highly-rated bottles hailing from California, Australia, and beyond. These bottlings hit the sweet spot, splitting the difference between butter bomb and nose-searing acidity.

Punchy citrus, nectarine, lemongrass, river rock, and white flower aromas explode on the nose of this high elevation Chardonnay. The palate dances with lively acidity and energetic phenolic grip, fading into flavors of focused Meyer lemon, grilled Anjou pear, toasty hazelnut, a whisper of cinnamon, orange blossoms, and chopped lemon verbena along a mouthwatering finish. Stunning now, this will improve with patience. Editors’ Choice. 96 Points — Tom R. Capo

Inquire with the winery

Aromas of citrus blossoms, white tea join flavors of spiced apple sauce with a dollop of caramel pudding through a palate washed clean by fresh acidity. Youthfully taut upon opening, this Chardonnay continues to reveal additional flavors and aromas with further sipping. 90 Points — Elaine Chukan Brown

$40
La Crema

This wine is a fun and interesting selection because it uses cats. Imagine kicking back on the couch with your furry friend, enjoying a bright, aromatic Chardonnay that tastes like fresh, crisp apple, nutmeg, orange zest, with a touch of lightly toasted oak, and a mineral finish. Best Buy. 90 Points — Tonya Pitts

Inquire with the winery

Felton Road may be world renowned for their Pinots, but do not ignore their wonderful Chards. After all, if Pinot thrives in Central’s semi-arid, mountainous landscape, so too should Chardonnay. With a few years of bottle age, this is shining. There’s both vibrancy and depth of flavor: roasted cashew, lemon oil, truffle, beeswax, wet stone and a herbal edge. It’s mid weight, curvy; a toasty, flinty fringe around pithy, salted lemon fruit concentration to a long finish. Editors’ Choice. 96 Points — Christina Pickard

$50
Rye Brook Wine & Spirit Shop

There’s an inviting lift of lemony goodness with a lick of nougat, cashew backbone, hight-toned, with whipped peaks of citrus and cream. A glycerine glide to the palate never feels heavy. In fact, freshness abounds, thanks to a laser beam of acidity that shoots right through the center of the tongue, keeping things tight and focused. Kumeu’s entry level Chard is a wonderful intro to the style, and this particular vintage is a total steal. Stock up, if you can. 94 Points — C.P.

$24
Flatiron Wines

Straight from first sniff this reels you in. It’s opulent and saline with toasted hazelnuts, creme brûlée, hints of banana leaf, stone fruit, lemon, pineapple rind and a whisper of smoke. It’s beautifully balanced on the palate; quietly powerful; the toasted pastry flavors woven with tangy acidity and an alluring texture. It’s a complete wine now, but should also age gracefully for more than a decade. 96 Points — C.P.

$115
K&L Wines

There’s a lovely bright lemony lift to the nose of this Margaret River Chard, with melon, brine and toasty, cashew notes tucked behind. A line of salt-flecked acidity rushes straight down the middle of the tongue. Modern and approachable, yet also unmistakably “Margs” in style. 94 Points — C.P.

$40
Total Wine

More Chardonnay Coverage

• Check out our essential guide to Chardonnay.
• Then, take a deep dive into Chardonnayspeak.
• If you’re ready to do some more shopping, these are our favorite Chardonnays from across the globe.
• Want to stay stateside? Here are our best California Chardonnays.
• Or, if you’re feeling the French vibe, these white Burgundies are exceptional.
• And these Chablis are pure Cha-bliss.

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